They tell you that the porno you order in your room won’t appear on your bill when you check out, but the pornographic movies cost at least two dollars more than the family films. There’s ten dollars for one film recorded on your bill, the nice comedy you watched, and underneath, you’ve been charged nearly thirteen dollars for another movie. Subtle.
I move from hotel to hotel just because I want to see more of New York City. This is my second time in the City that doesn’t really ever get enough beauty sleep, but some how it always seems rather attractive to me. The first time I went there I spent with my neck bent, permanently looking upwards at the sky scrapers. This time I have more time to look at the streets, to take in the faces of the people round me. I sit on the subway, pretending to be just another commuter, a citizen of New York, looking at their faces, watching their expressions. I observe the fat Puerto Rican women laughing, the Italian and Jewish and whatever people crowding in and chatting or looking up at the adverts above their heads, while haggard looking figures crawl through the subway car selling batteries.
The last time I was here I was drunk in Times Square with my buddy from Pennsylvania and I got felt up by a hooker. I had hung out with the winos and scared the hell out of a crack dealer when I demanded booze from him. He must have thought I was asking for some drug he’d never heard of. The hooker followed me into a store, where my friend was buying cigarettes, and she started to ask me to go off with her somewhere. I had to talk to her, I just had to; how often do you get to chat to a New York hooker? Through my numbness, I could feel something happening below and looked down to see her cupping my crotch.
This time I had three days in New York to kill before heading to Penn, so I phoned a friend in London and asked her what I should do. ‘Go to Central Park Zoo,’ she told me. I jumped in a taxi and was dropped off on the edge of Central Park where I wandered, completely lost. I asked an oriental girl for directions. How many oriental New Yorkers must there be? She was from China and spoke no English. She showed me her map and we both took turns to spin the map around and scratch our collective heads. I walked on alone until I saw an elderly couple walking from the opposite direction. They’ve been where I’m going, I think, and ask them for directions.
‘Hello there. It’s nice to meet someone from good old England. We’re from Yorkshire.’ The old man says and pats me on the back.
We walk on towards Central Park, with the couple telling me how much they love Boston and New York, and how much cleaner these cities seem. We part at the entrance of the zoo, me with a hotdog to sustain me.
It’s true what they say about being alone in a large city. So many people- eight million, in fact and you know nobody. I sit in the hotel bar later that night, sipping a cold and lonely beer. I pass a couple of bucks across to the Hispanic barmaid. She doesn’t smile, but I turn and look out the window at the City, with its neon lights and feel a fire burn inside me.
I step out in the warm night and walk to another bar, feeling the loneliness all around and it feels great.
I spend nine days in Pennsylvania as part of a wedding party before jumping on a train with a monster hang over and heading back to New York. Somehow, part of me is not glad to be back and had got use to the laid back attitude of the people of Penn. Now I was surrounded by the honking horns of the New York cabbies and the uninterested faces of the residents of the city. The New Yorker’s collective lack of sleep seemed to have manifested it self in general moodiness. I jump in a taxi and tell the driver I want to head for the Radisson Hotel on Lexington. I don’t have an address, so this seems to make the ride almost impossible. Some how we make it, by speeding down Lexington and trying to spot the hotel.
Inside, I drag my enormous suitcase into the plush lobby across the shining floors and face the oriental man the desk who’s smiling at me.
‘Who’s the daddy?’ He asks me. Is he the daddy? I almost ask him, before looking down at my T-shirt where the phrase ‘Who’s the daddy’ is embossed.
When I get to my surprisingly nice room, I realise that I don’t have the keys to my suitcase, so have to phone the concierge to help me. I’m sure I can hear a snigger in his voice as I hang up and wait for someone to break open my case. I watch helplessly as the maintenance man breaks the lock and looks at me like I’m stupid. I tip him three dollars, the only change I have left. In the hardware store down the street, I buy a new lock and find myself being asked all sorts of questions by the old man behind the counter. He asks me about England, then tries to persuade me to buy a fantastic new kind of screw driver. Thinking about my ineptitude with the lock on the case, I almost give in to his sales pitch.
The room, at the Radisson- Lexington, is the best I’ve stayed at so far, so much better than the New Yorker, where the rooms and hallways were a little grubby. But I can’t forget the New Yorker completely because they served me an excellent New York steak at nine thirty in the evening and an equally superb breakfast and coffee at 8:30 the next morning. I loved sitting in that diner and listening to actual New Yorkers discussing their lives and their jobs before they headed off to work. I remember one woman suddenly exclaiming, “911 ruined my life!”
For me, being in Manhattan, or on Manhattan, however you want to phrase it, New York City, was a dream come true. Okay, yes, I had been there before, but this was different. I was alone for the majority of the time and when I boarded a Subway carriage, I was just another commuter. I would sit there and pretend not be in constant amazement that I was there, getting off my stop with the relaxed boredom any other passenger has. It’s true, part of me became bored in a way, probably because I didn’t have anyone to share my experience with. When you return to New York, the magic diminishes a little and you need a fresh pair of eyes from which to view it. I was to be joined by a friend in three days, but until then, I would drop by Times Square and enter the Easy Internet Café and send my Friend Cathy a few Emails.
Just the other day, she showed me a selection I had sent her while I was there, remarking how horny I must have become while being in New York. When I asked why, she showed me an email that read: ‘I’m living in the shadow of the Empire State Building and I’m horny. One erection under another huge erection.’
Maybe this was to do with spending so much time In Times Square, a place with such a sinful history. You can’t help feel dirty in a place like Times Square. There was a time when triple x movie houses and sex shops littered the whole place, much like they do in London’s Soho, but now all you see is the MTV studios and sports shops, lined up along side diners and stores filled with crap gifts aimed at gullible tourist. The phrase ‘I heart New York’ is printed on everything, along side the newly popular FDNY shirts and sweat shirts. 911 made heroes of the emergency services and rich men of the guys who own these shops filled with their cheap and tacky gifts.
At night the neon signs glow wantonly between 42nd and 47th street, still with as many tourists as there are in the day, coming in and out of shows or bars. You can get a lot more round this part of New York than a cup of coffee and a piece of pie, as long as you’re willing to pay a high price for it. You can see the ladies drift out about two am, dressed in ridiculously raunchy outfits, their mouths ready to open and the most vulgar statements to fall out. At night, it’s a scary and fascinating place to be. This is the place to be, right at the spot where Seventh Avenue and Broadway caress each other. Look up and the big electronic billboards smile down at you, telling you want drink or consume or what sport brand will help your performance- who knows if they mean between the sheets or on the sports field. Along the street, on the edge of the sidewalk, stalls have been set up to sell the tourists the real crap, like carved name plates and cheaply photocopied movie scripts.
Of course, I had to travel down town to the financial district where the Twin Towers of the World Trade Centre once stood. I walked around the hordes of other tourists, pretending and feeling that I wasn’t really one of them, their cameras pin pointed towards the large metal cross fashioned from the remains of two iron girders. Somehow, as if the site of the tragedy was pissed off with being photographed, a big cloud of dust would in engulf the crowd. Picture a monkey at a zoo pissing through the bars of its cage.
I spent a few minutes there, regretting that I had not travel up the towers on my original visit and trying to imagine this as the place I had seen on the news. I couldn’t and just looked at the spray painted writing on the surviving buildings left by the Fire Department. One reads: SEARCHED: FDNY.
I walk back towards the Subway Station, but decide to keep walking past it with the intent of travelling through the neighbours all he way back to Mid Town Manhattan. The change is amazing, as you swap grimy streets filled with run down shops with clean sidewalks filled with plush restaurants, the heady aroma of Italian and European cooking drifting out of them. It’s difficult not to step inside and just keep on heading uptown.
As you walk round around New York City and see the faces of its citizens, you realise there isn’t that much emphasis on the physical, not like there is in Los Angeles. In the City of Angels, people are constantly striving to look their best or more so, putting themselves through many cosmetic surgery operations. They believe they are defying the aging process, but all they are really doing is creating a mask, and a pretty strange one at that. In New York, you get the feeling that it’s more about financial stability and the desperate urge not to die alone, while working in a good job. They rarely have nice apartments though- their homes are usually something like a nicely decorated shoe box with a hop and skip to the bathroom and kitchen.
Of course, the rent for these places are still considerably high. This is the price you pay, quite literally, for living in Manhattan. A British woman from Liverpool, who I met as she was working in a bar on Second Avenue, told me ‘I pay $1500 a month and that’s cheap. The tenants before me were paying $2000 a month. It’s a nice place, much nicer than some. But you never see your friend’s apartments, because everybody meets up in bars or restaurants. There’s not enough room to entertain in their little homes. I have to work two jobs as well, but I don’t mind.’
So, it’s not who you are, but how much you earn, because you have to be earning a lot to be able to live in Manhattan in the first place.
I was heading through Greenwich Village after my visit to the world trade centre site, one of my favourite parts of New York City, admiring the little restaurants and the brownstone buildings when a notice caught my eye. A small shop on a sharp corner of the street advertised tarot card readings for twenty dollars. I couldn’t resist. It was probably the fact that I was in a completely different country, thousands of miles away from what I knew or anyone who knew me, that spurred me to go inside. I grabbed the door and it failed to open. I tried for another door, but that didn’t open either. Eventually, I found the tall and blonde psychic woman staring at me and beckoning me in as she stood looking dramatically bewitching in a long dark dress.
Inside the small triangular room stood a small table and two chairs facing each other. She told me to seat my self and took up her position. ‘Ten dollars for palm reading, but that will only give you a view of your personality. For Twenty dollars I’ll give you a tarot reading so you can see into your future.’
Thinking that I already knew my personality, I went for the tarot reading and watched her expertly shuffle the cards, her eyes looking down at the polished surface of the table. I studied her serious face and saw that she was probably in her forties and reminded me a little of Phoebe from friends, but with more than hint of witchcraft about her. When she looked up, her eyes seemed to pierce through me, her hand offering me the cards. ‘Shuffle please honey.’
She laid out the cards in front of me, her eyes scanning over the pictures that meant little to me. She sat upright and for a moment I thought she was going to go into a trance. I looked about the room and noticed a flight of stairs to our left. Probably her apartment, I decided.
‘You have a negative force about you. Has anyone ever told you that?’ She said bluntly, her eyes burning into mine.
I admitted to being pretty negative. It is true after all. Maybe it was the way I walked in or the fact that I couldn’t find the right door. She tells me that I need to fight and once I do, everything else will fall in place. I’ll be moving too, she informs me, looking strangely high and morose at the same time. I cannot concentrate on what she is saying too much, as my eyes keep drifting out through the windows and out into the Village where New York life is going on around me.
‘For seventy five dollars, I can go into a deep trance and find out where your negativity comes from.’ She says and looks through me. I decline and leave the shop, to travel up through the neighbourhoods, getting a real feel of life in the City.
The next day I find my self back in JFK, sitting in a small arrivals lounge watching the TV screens above my head, waiting for my friend’s flight to come in. Being not the most organised person in the world, I feared that my arrangements for her arrival in New York, were certainly to go badly. Claire should have, at seven in the morning, boarded a plane from Heathrow and I sat and prayed that somehow it would all go well. Her flight appeared on the board, informing me that the passengers were now going through customs. I felt sorry for her, knowing she would be stared at through dark sunglasses and treated abruptly.
I stood at the end of a long corridor as every now and again bodies would appear through the doors carrying luggage. Through my bleary vision I could make out a small figure waving and gradually saw Claire coming towards me, smiling brightly. We hugged, the only words I could find being, ‘Welcome to New York.’
I pointed to a yellow cab, hoping to establish that she was actually in New York. We had planned this so long ago and I wanted everything to be perfect. You’re in New York with a beautiful woman on your arm, so how can it get any better? This is the dream. This is the sort of stuff you want to write about, because you know it won’t happen again.
We walk along the street from our hotel after she’s settled and I point upwards, so she can look up and see the towering view of The Empire State Building. Inside we laugh and catch up, following massive queue around the building. An American behind us suddenly informs us that we seem to be the happiest people in the building. Later, after we are wondering round the top of the building, the wind grabbing at our hair, Claire informs me that he was taking sly photos of us and writing down everything we said.
We have our photograph taken with New York below us like all the tourists do. A neat square of greenery cut into the earth sits down below and we stare at it, resting our arms on the metal fence that stops us from throwing ourselves over the side. We smile and hug.
In the dark, back in the hotel, with the sound of the air conditioner humming, I lay there in the double bed we share, a grin still burnt into my face.
Knowing it to be a dream of Claire’s to dance on a bar like the one in Coyote Ugly, the movie, I take her to Hogs and Heifers. We take a taxi into the Meat packing district, an area of New York which contains meat storage facilities and markets. It’s as rough as it sounds, except for the parts that have now become trendy as the yuppies have moved in. The taxi crawls along to the outside of the grotty looking bar where rock music blares out from. Biker types stand outside and we sit inside, watching through the windows of the cab, trying to decide if this is such a good idea.
Now we are watching a Hollywood movie become reality. This could be the street where the young actress walks along after her first night working in the bar, nearly getting fired. Except, that was probably a soundstage and this is the real thing. Around us are warehouses, and the bar looks like it use to be one of them. It’s much smaller than the one in the film, more compact, but inside the girls, wearing jeans and bikini tops, serve beers and shots and look just as good as the actresses in the film.
Claire and I, after some discussion, go to enter the bar and get stopped for ID. He looks suspiciously at Claire after she hands over her British Driving Licence. ‘I would’ve said you weren’t older than twenty,’ he says and lets us through after strapping a band round our wrists. Rock music shakes the building as the customers crowd the bar, holding out ten and twenties, waiting for a chance to get verbally abused at the bar. It’s strange, because if you watch, you’ll see the bar girls picking up a megaphone and shouting stuff like ‘Fuck you, you mother…’ at nobody in particular. Again, Hollywood has imitated life and vice versa.
We both stand in awe, Claire’s startled face watching the girls behind the bar doing what she’s always wanted to do. They jump onto the surface of the bar, showing us their cowboy boots and begin doing some kind of line dance. ‘No pictures!’ they order and slam their heels into the well worn bar, a thousand bras hanging above their heads. It would be nice to think some of them belonged to the many famous women, like Julia Roberts, who was said to have danced on that very bar.
‘Let’s get some of you ladies up here!’ The prettier of the two women says, adjusting her cowboy hat. I turn to Claire and see her mesmerised. ‘Well, now you have to decide if you want to go home having danced on the coyote ugly bar or not.’
‘Is that a challenge?’ She asks, swigging her bottle of Bud.
‘No, just saying that it’s up to you. This is your chance.’ I say and watch her clamber on the bar and begin dancing along side two other girls. Eventually the other women climb down and Claire goes to do the same. One of the bar girls grabs the back of her jeans, pulling her back onto the bar, shouting, ‘You ain’t going anywhere sweet heart.’
I look up over the crowd and watch her dancing, looking like she’s really enjoying it. I like to think I made two of her dreams come true. Visiting New York and dancing in a coyote ugly style.
This is no longer my trip. This journey has become more than about me. This was once something we had dreamed about and now we were doing those things we had half joked about.
At JFK airport we say good bye, Claire stepping onto an escalator, disappearing.
I step onto the Subway and out in Manhattan, I merge with the crowd, disappearing into it. A man can truly vanish in such a huge place. I smile.
That night I’m watching Phone Booth. I sit there realising that it was filmed just round the corner from my hotel. I’m no longer sure what is real. And it’s great.